The End, The Beginning

... I could keep traveling, and searching for home. Or i could keep traveling, always feeling home...

There is not much else i can say. Only thank you for reading my blog along this journey. I hope that you laughed, and cried along with me. I hope that the landscapes inspired you as much as they did me. I hope that you might want to leave everything for a few months and experience the wonders of being everywhere and nowhere at the same time. Thank you for all your comments and support. Thank you.

:)

Atlanta

(Whistle Stop Cafe)

I think i should restart my believe in magic:

Ramón, old and wonderful, who drove me through the traffic of New York and Chicago, and the wonderful green plains of Minnesota, across the Mississippi (twice), into the deserted Badlands and the beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota, the great emptiness of Idaho, and the marvelous Columbia River george in Oregon... Ramón, down south on R-1, inches away from the Pacific, into the giant trees of the Redwood, on 7-lane highways in the Bay Area... Ramón through Malibu and Santa Barbara. Ramón through the dessert at nightfall, into the Sedona's magical Red Rock Country, and up up the Grand Canyon, and down down the New Mexico hilly landscape, inches away from Mexico. And all through Texas, the 900 miles of it. And through the swamps of Louisiana and green forests of Georgia. He also drove me (on Monday) to my adolescent dream: the Whistle Stop Cafe, lost near some train tracks and an abandoned mill near Juliete, GA. Ramón, who made sure i didn't miss any of my university appointments, nor any of my friend's plane rides. Ramón, who on Monday night stalled 2 feet away from my friends Gyka's apartment in Atlanta where we were planning to stay for three days... and had to be pushed into the easy parking place directly across from her door... Ramón, who waited, like the wise old animals, to pass when it was the right time to do so... He just didn't start again... His last trip was to the mechanic who told me it wasn't worth it to fix him. And there he is today, about to be sold as a parts car to help another little Ford Festiva to keep running in the world.

Tonight my sister and I rent a car to finish the 4 days i've got left of this trip. We will drive to Greenville, South Carolina. We will drive into New York on Sunday night with the comforts of A/C and power steering... and i will cry a little tear for all the things i left behind in this adventure, and i will smile for all the ones i found.

Austin, and New Orleans

Austin is marvelous. Despite the weather. It is the right size city, with enough going on, and great vibe. And - the program is to my liking. I Visited UT Austin two full days, and they were very nice showing me around. I am excited about this whole project, but, again - we shall see.

We Stayed in a cute motel on S Congress until Thursday morning, and got to swim in their awesome pool on Monday, before the weather changed. Amy left very early on Wednesday, and my sister came late that evening. Blanca had been traveling for more than a full day, in which she transported herself on a car, ferry, bus and plane. Even so, to go from a remote island in Scotland to Austin TX in one day is actually pretty good.

(The motel in Austin, TX)

Entering Louisiana yesterday was really beautiful. I-10, the same interstate Amy and i took leaving LA and left going North, returned in the form of a massive bridge-like highway, above the Atchafalaya Swamp for more than 18 miles. It was pretty impressive. And beautiful. The guide talked about this area as "no place to ran out of gas", which made me laugh and think about this show i've been catching in motels (man vs. wild) that made both Guille and Amy laugh (at me, mostly) but that i was freaking into because they keep dropping this dude into the most dangerous parts of the planet right after they say "this is no place to hang around". Anyway, we did not ran out of gas, and enjoyed the swamp, 55 miles per hour.

(Atchafalaya Swamp, East of Lafayette, Louisiana)

We made our way into New Orleans through the West bank of the Mississippi, looking at all the plantations and mansions. The drive (through the all-mighty, old friend R-1) was pretty spectacular. That night i did laundry while Blanca took a disco nap, and we both hit the town to have dinner. Now, i do not know what the French Quarter looks like during Mardi Gra (Carnaval, for those of you in the Old World), but good lord i can't even imagine. There were hundreds of people on the streets, which were cut to traffic. Do they do this every Friday night? Like the red district in Amsterdam, multiplied by hundreds of party goers, drunks, and tourist like us taking pictures of the spectacle. We walked away from the party streets and found the old New Orleans, and had dinner in a corner restaurant. We didn't have much time to do more, but today we have all day, and i am excited to explore Creole culture.

(Fountain in the French Quarter, New Orleans)

Texas

(Madrid, New Mexico)

We are in the small town of Junction, Texas, about 150 miles West of Austin. There are no Super8s in this part of the country, so we had to go with a local hunters spot (they are all watching the football game next door). It's kind of perfect, actually. I was dreading this part of the trip a little - driving through Texas - but so far, it hasn't been all that bad.

We slept one night in Santa Fe, New Mexico, in an amazing spa in the mountains. It was a treat, after so long on the road. And from there, the beautiful Turquoise Trail down to El Paso (where we drove into Madrid, above.) This whole area is a balanced "green desert", not to be expected at all. It is beautiful. The last 600 miles have been an empty road across flat green fields, with distant canyons and plateaus. And a huge thunderstorm that has been following Ramón since we left Santa Fe. I look around and can't believe this is Texas.

The second part of this trip ends tomorrow. We will drive into Austin, where i have a few appointments at the university (such great response from these guys, really). Amy flies back to NY on Wednesday morning, and my sister is landing on Wednesday afternoon. I am sad, and, excited for this trip to continue in a different form. We should all be flexible with change. I actually think this whole trip has been about that: flexibility.

Ramón is starting to suffer a little. I picture this very old man, with an oxygen tank, dragging his little feel across the country. And slowly, getting everywhere. He has never felt so small until Texas, where EVERYTHING is freaking huge.

Below, one of the many murals around this parts...

(Ozona, Texas)

The Grand Canyon

From Flagstaff to the South entrance of the Grand Canyon National Park is a 85 mile drive. All up hill, up to the plateau, up up until you're 8000 miles above sea level, and then its all flat, and then... a crack. A huge crack. An immense, magnificent, totally ridiculous crack. We drove in the early morning, and we didn't catch any traffic. Van Morrison played while we drove in, and i had my hand out the window, feeling the dry wind. Dry, cool wind that has helped shape this wonder...

(Grand Canyon, AZ - with morning light)

We camped in the South- East section of the rim. It was a very small campground, and totally deserted, which is always nice. We hiked the rim trail (West to East along the rim) for the rest of the day and watched the sunset from one of the suggested locations with the rest of people who had escaped work on the second week of September. And you see, the canyon changes depending at what time you look at it. The sun is so bright during the day, it's hard to see the depth, and colors of all the small rock formations within the canyon itself. It is a never ending moving image. Walk East on the rim for a mile, look, and it is a different experience every single time. At sunset everything is red, and everyone is silent, because everything is silent. And you can almost hear the clouds move.

(Grand Canyon, Az - at sunset)

At night we heard the coyotes. And in the morning we hiked down a not so popular trail down to Cedar Point, 1.5 miles into the rim. Being inside the canyon is a test of endurance. It was hot, with very few shade - but totally worth it. Everything is so vast. So beautiful. And you get to be in it. And it is exhausting. And wonderful. And i can't wait to do it again, further in, hardcore hiking all the way down to the Colorado river, and cross the foot bridge that i know is down there. Someday.

Someday.

Today, driving East away from the canyon, through the Navajo Nation and Hopi lands. Tomorrow we make base in Santa Fe, NM. The landscape is still red. And, as always, endless.

(hiking the south rim, one foot away from the abyss)

East, East

Santa Barbara is a small, perfect, paradise. Too perfect for my taste i think. Southern California is totally, exactly, like in the movies. It was a bit of a clash, actually, to drive south on R-1 (so fabulous), with seals, and ocean clashing with land, and hills and mountains... into Santa Barbara. The night before we camped in a campground south of Big Sur, in Los Padres National Park. 5 feet away from the cliff, and the ocean. The sunset was so spectacular...

(Beach south of Big Sur, CA)

The more I am in nature, the more offensive I find the conglomerations of civilization. We drove away from the LA area, and the road transformed itself from a 7 lane highway into a 2 lane freeway, with no cars. Driving through the dessert at nightfall... so much better than a clustered beach... The road inland was slightly painful the next day, because of the heat, and the distances. But it was worth it. We drove through Sedona, and its red rock formations, and it was incredible. The Grand Canyon awaits. I have been waiting for so long to see it again (more than 20 years!) that I am not sure how will I react to it now.

No expectations.

The secret to always being surprised.

(Sedona, CA)

North California

Ashland is a beautiful little town on the interior border of Oregon and California. We were hosted my Amy's friend Malena, in her recently bought home, with a garden, right next to the old (and unused) train tracks. The town is a tourist destination for rich californians, specially this time of year because of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. We didn't see any plays, we walked around the town and bought new shoes instead. We also played in the old train tracks to fulfill my train fetish...

(old train in Ashland OR)

On our way to Ashland from Brookings we drove through Stout Grove and witnessed the magnificent redwoods. The little dirt road was built to show off the trees, and it was lovely to feel very very small among such beauties. It was only a 4 mile drive until we hit the paved road towards Ashland, and we bordered the Smith river for a few miles after that. The amazing thing about the rivers in Oregon is that it is the only source of swimmable water, besides certain lakes, in the state. The pacific is too cold all year round. I think the Oregonians have develop an incredible love for rivers, and they know how to take good care of them. They trade river hole locations on the internet, they pass them on from friend to friend, or they just keep the secret to themselves. Nature is very well kept in this part of the world. It gives me hope for humanity.

(little Ramón in the Redwoods)

We drove from Ashland to Oakland (near San Francisco) on Monday. The drive was long, and the high temperature didn't help us, nor Ramón. He was overheating a little, so we stopped. In a casino. I know, we never learn our lessons... BUT! this time i actually pulled my blackjack skill out of my hat and won 115 dollars. Which paid for gas, oil and dinner. The lucky event helped the drive into the city (HELL) - but the stay here has been great. I had good interviews with both Berkeley and Standford and I could get excited about living here. I'm just not going to just yet...

Today we drive to lower California on R-101. Tonight we camp midway between here and Santa Barbara. After that, family in Ojai and Irvine, near LA.

Its been a month since i left New York.

I'm not tired!

Oregon

I am sitting in a very small coffee shop in the harbor of Brookings, OregAn. It is raining like crazy, and the locals are very happy about it. It has been a very dry summer, they say. I just spent two days on top of a beautiful mountain, way high, with views of the valley and the Chetco river, and the Pacific. The drive from Eugene on R-101 was magnificent: the steep walls that defend the land from the sea, and seals. Thousands of seals.

(The Pacific, coast of Oregon)

We left Eugene on Wednesday afternoon. I had my last appointment that day (everything great with the university.) We camped that night south of Florence, already in the coast. We ate mexican food in a very cozy joint, and lost 20$ in the casino (I was winning 80$ for a minute there...) The next day we had fun in the dunes.

(Dunes near Florence, OR)

Brookings is were Amy grew up. And it is here where her mom rests. Her ashes were spread to the wind and the river almost two years ago. Yesterday we drove up the Chetcho river to say hi to her. The sun was warm, the road was empty, and the river was the most beautiful and spiritual body of water i have ever been in.

Today, East to Ashland. Not saying goodbye to Oregon just yet...

(Chetco river, near Brookings)

Finally, the Pacific

Guille and i drove into Portland on wednesday afternoon. I know, its been a while since i've updated this... my dear friend Gyka called me out on it today. I've made a promise to myself to ALWAYS take her advise, because most of the time she is right on.

Not that i'm writing out of fear right now...

;)

That night we drove to a cool little street in a cool little neighborhood in the northern section of Portland, and we had our first (and only) great meal of the trip in this italian restaurant that served me my first glass of wine in 3 weeks. The next day we walked all around the city and i bought myself new clothes and books. Much needed city life, i must say, after so much road...

You have to understand that both Guille and i are soccer fans to really appreciate the fact that on friday morning we awoke at 7 AM to drive to seattle in time for the european supercup final. We watched the game in an irish pub near the harbor. I missed the first half because i locked my car keys in the car with the excitment.

I know...

It all worked out. I got my keys thanks to this guy named Mike, and Barcelona won 1-0 in the last minute of the game. It was great.

We walked down to the water, to take a picture proof of our coast-to-coast success:

(Seattle WA)

Seattle is beautiful. And it is where i said goodbye to Guille. I drove him to the airport on saturday night, hugged him, told him that it had been amazing to have him with me, and watched him walk slowly through security. It was then when the first stage of this trip ended. I walked towards the other end of the airport, and sat reading my book. Amy landed half an hour later, and it was then when the second stage of this trip started.

We drove back into Portland yesterday morning. We are staying with her wonderful friends in North Portland. Their hospitality has been incredible, and we are sleeping in their luxurious tent trailer that is parked in their driveway.

Tomorrow we drive to Eugene, where i have my first PhD interview. I'm excited, and a little nervous. The west coast will be very different than the cross-country driving, and i am ready to experience, and keep being impressed by this vast and beautiful country.

(me, reflected on a Seattle bus)

Eastern Oregon

So today driving towards La Grande OR on I-84 we ran out of gas.

I know.

...

The sun was bright as hell. Ramón on the side of the highway, Guille reading inside. Me playing baseball with the rocks, waiting for the AAA guy to show up. It took a few hours for him to find us because we told him the wrong location. I ran a mile down the highway looking for the nearest mileage sign with him on the phone. You guys know how long a mile is?? Jesus. Guille and i were talking politics for 150 miles and forgot about the gas. Its all Hugo Chavez's fault.

I actually loved the experience.

:)

So, no pictures because my camera ran out of battery yesterday. But we did climb a volcano in the middle of Idaho (who knew). We also crossed another yellow Ford Festiva on our way to the volcano. No Joke. It was so unreal. Amy told me today that we should have stopped and hugged.

Tomorrow, Portland.

Idaho

We left I-90 on Friday to make our way into Cody, WY and haven't gotten back into a highway until today. The last two days have been filled with small roads, up and down mountains, buffalo, national state parks, and beauty. I must say, these lands are empty of civilization. You don't think you need to drive up a dirt road for gas until you actually have to.

(somewhere in WY )

The last time i was in Cody, i was six years old. I don't remember well enough to compare. I have the feeling it hasn't changed much, though. Guille and i were both shocked at what a cowboy city actually looks like. Horses and cars, cowboys (with guns on their belts) and tourists (with cameras, like us) all strolling down Main street.

(Cody, WY)

After this, Yellowstone and Grand Teton were nature porn. Ramón behaved more than correctly (including today, when we climbed the Grand Teton mountain pass on our way into Idaho). By the time we left Yellowstone we had seen so many buffalo, we were actually hoping for a bear to feed our adrenaline.

(Yellowstone, WY)

I swam in a glacier lake in Grand Teton and i wish i had words to explain the feeling. I was the only human in sight.

I can't believe we've made it this far...

(Grand Teton, WY)

South Dakota (Part Two)

Driving West on I-90, past the Missouri, something amazing happens: the Badlands National Park on one side, the Black Hills on the other. The green fields of South Dakota become the amazing wild west. Rock formations that remind me of the old John Wayne movies that i use to love as a child. Driving down the road (above), i feel very small, and humble. I think about how ironic it is that i keep looking for roads that lead to beautiful places, and at the same time i don't believe there is a marked road for me. And i take the moment to be kind to myself.

My friend Molly sent me all her Indigo Girls CD collection to the motel in Sturgis, SD. I love her so much for this wonderful gift. Before we drove in, yesterday early evening, we had been driving around the Black Hills:

(Mount Rushmore, SD)

What an amazing day yesterday. Two nights ago we camped in the Badlands National Park. Setting up the the tent was easy, and painless. We spent the afternoon driving around the Badlands loop, stopping at every viewpoint, breathing the west. The night was filled with stars, and cold air. The morning brought rain, and i awoke with gentle taps, and it was beautiful.

(the view from our tent)

South Dakota has proven itself. It is, by far, the most beautiful state we've seen since we left New York. Today we drive to Cody, door to Yellowstone. I will be sad to leave the dessert behind.

South Dakota

(The Mississippi, in La Crosse MN)

Driving through South Dakota tonight, i saw the stars like i have never seen them before. I cannot wait for the Badlands tomorrow, and camp under them, and get to stare and admire. I will think about my friend Molly, who wishes for stars everywhere she goes. Today we drove past a few local towns looking for a mechanic that would replace ramón's fuel filter. We had to wait until Sioux Falls to get the job done, going 55 on the highway.

(If you are ever around this area, and you need a car fixed, let me know.)

Yesterday we drove across the Mississippi. It was amazing. We stopped and took pictures. Tonight we are sleeping 500 feet from the Missouri. We drove in late night, so i haven't gotten a chance to really see it. Tomorrow...

Tomorrow - The Missouri, and the Badlands. The west turned pretty, somewhere, on I-90, and I can't explain it with words. We were driving North, and then all of the sudden, the compass flipped to West, and it was pretty. The green fields, the red sun, and an empty road.

Chicago, IL

i lived two years in evanston, north of chicago. it was a very long time ago, but i still feel a slight sense of being home every time i visit. evanston hasn't changed in the last 20 years. it's a little bit scary... but safe. so safe, in fact, we've decided to stay one more day. we drive away tomorrow, following I-90 to minnesota. today i worked all morning on my orchestra piece (done!), then we had lunch downtown and we picked up ramón from the wonderful bolivian mechanics who gave him a full makeover. it runs great. today i also got the license plates from my amazing friend megan, who waited in line forever to get them and send them to me. finally, all the paperwork is DONE. what an ordeal, seriously. thanks thanks amy and megan!

also - i bought a zombie book to read in the motels of the west.

(walking the streets of chicago, near millennium park)

New York - Chicago

(ramón parked in squirrel hill)

ramón (above), guille and i left brooklyn on monday afternoon. we passed the night in a super 8 near allentown PA, and drove to pittsburgh PA the next morning. i'm still getting used to driving long distance, so we've decided to not go more than 5 hours in one day. pittsburgh was great, and way too short (thanks molly and j.) left early afternoon on wednesday and drove to toledo OH, fighting trucks the whole way. guille forgot his comfortable shoes in pittsburgh and molly is sending them to a motel in south dakota... toledo's super 8 was a 5 star motel. not joking. i got obsessed with a tv show called "i shouldn't be alive, the amazon special". so fascinating that people kept walking into that damn jungle with no map looking for adventure and almost dying for it. in the morning we had our free breakfast (seriously people, 5 stars) and drove to chicago. the windy city is looking marvelous, and guille flipped out with lake shore drive. at a friends house until saturday - so no driving for me tomorrow. only to take ramón to the mechanic to replace the exhaust pipe. its cracked. not a big deal, just too loud for us...

the west awaits and i am excited.

(ohio sunset)